A family week in Utah
We had a great time playing cards at night and chatting by the bonfire. It was great to see the girls reconnecting with their grand-parents. Six days went by pretty fast.
We had a great time playing cards at night and chatting by the bonfire. It was great to see the girls reconnecting with their grand-parents. Six days went by pretty fast.
It was a really beautiful moment that we will remember all our life. It truly felt like a rite of passage, for us as much as for them. Watching them go so confidently, their stong bodies working up and down the rocks, agile and comfortable where many adults weren't.
I remember that when they turned 10, I could see the little girls and the women at once when I looked at them. Now, not so much. I see the young women they have become. I enjoy their presence so much and all the discussions we have. Something strange happens when your children become as tall as you. You litterally start seeing them more like an equal. And I feel so very fortunate to share my days with such amazing partners.
**If you are planning to come to Zion, check out the great post our friend Ching wrote about the hikes in the park. She is the one that suggested to combine Angels Landing and part of the West Rim Trail (which is approx 20 miles long, all the way to the west entrance of the park at Kolob Canyon).
It's our third time visiting Zion National Park and honestly, we thought we had seen everything there was to see. Then, we came across that link about Hidden Canyon and decided it would be the perfect birthday hike. I'm so glad we did because it was nothing short of breathtaking! It starts with a long climb up (the same one as the Observation Point hike we did last year) and veers right. There is a pretty exposed section of switchbacks with chains (where some people turn around) and then it's the end of the trail, but you can enter the canyon and scramble your way in as far as you feel comfortable. We left very early to beat the crowd and we rewarded by having the trail and canyon almost to ourselves!
On our way back, we decided to hike up to the canyon on the Observation Point trail since it is so spectacular. We had lunch in the sun just outside that canyon and the sun felt so amazing on our skin.
That night, my amazing friends had prepared a surprise dinner potluck. The kids worked hard to help prepare it and were great at keeping it a secret. The next day, we were all parting ways for a few weeks, or so I thought... but they had another surprise in store (next post!).
Since we only had one day of rock climbing in St. George this year (and since JF cannot lead because of his broken finger), we decided to come back to Green Valley Gap. We knew the place from last year and knew we could easily set up top ropes from the top of the canyon.
It was fun to have Ching and Jerud with us and we had a fun relaxing day hanging out at this beautiful crag. They even installed a zip line in the *gap* and we could see people sliding down it as we climbed. There is also a mountain bike trail right around the canyon - namely the Zen Trail (black) and the Barrel trails. Isa and Martin came to join us after they rode Bearclaw Poppy. There are so many trails and crags to explore in St. George. We will come back longer next time. There simply doesn't seem to be a good boondocking spot close enough with good signal. If you know one, leave a comment!
I kind of wonder why the JEM Trail and Gooseberry Mesa Trails are the must-do trails of this area since Guacamole Mesa seems to have it all in a more compact and more stunning version : fantastic slickrock, awesome singletrack, amazing scenery and big exposure. It's the mesa adjacent to Zion National Park overlooking the Virgin River, but without all the people that you find on JEM or Goose. It’s a mix of undulating open-rock riding plus singletrack through pinion, juniper, and brush. The trail is upper-intermediate in tech requirement, with a short area of advanced tech at the southeast corner of the loop. If you don't usually wear protection, this is the right place to start doing so!
The trail system has been named after the Big Avocado, a perfectly round cinder cone, that has been caused by a volcanic vent blowing out small pieces of molten rock. The trails are named Margarita, Holy Guacamole, Lime Loop, and the more exposed one is called Salt on the Rim. What’s not to like about this place?
The drive up to the trailhead is spectacular, with one side covered in black volcanic rock boulers and the other with red sandstone cliffs.
Oh and we found some petrified wood pieces on the trail! The kids were stocked!
The Hurricane mountain bike festival was a pretty fun event! Not too big to be pricey and overlwhelming and just big enough to allow me to sample many great bikes. For $55, I got 3 days of unlimited bike rental, a huge Friday night dutch oven cooked meal and two delicious breakfasts at the local coffee shop. And up to 3 shuttles a day to the top of JEM Trail. Talk about a great deal! When you think that renting such bikes for a day goes from $50 to $80! And compared to the upcoming Moab's Outerbike Festival (same thing but with higher shuttles for $175!)
The whole weekend felt like a blur of grab-a-half-bagel-forgotten-by-a-girl-on-the-table-and-a-banana-and-go-ride-more kind of thing.
Here are the geeky juicy details:
We went back to Gooseberry Mesa on Friday, where I tested the Pivot and Liv bikes. I had taken the Pivot (429sl), but quickly found it way too big for me even if it was a size small. It felt like biking on high heels! I was glad I ran into Ching on the trail who was pretty unhappy with the Liv Lust bike she was trying because it was too small and compact for her. We switched and were both happier bikers!
On Friday night, I took out the Ibis Mojo 3 with 27.5 plus wheels. It was love at first spin! Even after riding most of the day, I went for a ride after sunset with the girls on the Jem trail to test this awesome machine!
On Saturday morning, I went to get a Scott Spark (27.5 wheels) and had JF drop me higher on the trail so I could ride it down. Five minutes in, I discovered how touchy the brakes were by going over my handle bars on a 5 inch drop... This bike felt like a purebreed race horse, incredibly responsible, very light and nervous. I get why advanced mountain bikers and racers like this bike, but it is too unforgiving for me at this point. Then, I did our usual two-hour loop in Hurricane Cliffs Trail system with the Ibis Mojo 3 and had a big smile on my face the whole time!
I went back around lunch and got the same Niner I had tested at the Tucson bike demo and had fell in love with (The Jet 9 RDO). I did that same loop again (and yes, I was exhausted by the time I came back) and loved it. However, the frame felt a bit too big (I would need an XS in that brand and model, but they only had a S to demo) and the stand over height was too much for me.
On Sunday morning, I tried the Niner RKT 9 RDO in XS (the only bike they had in XS to demo) and was glad to be able to compare it with the Jet 9. The stand over height was definitely better, but the cockpit felt too compact (same problem I have with my XS Giant Trance XW1).
So, here's a summary (and my great shoe analogy):
Pivot Mach 429sl: The S frame with 29 in wheels felt way too big for me. I felt I was sitting on top of the bike instead of *inside* the bike. Unfortunately, they don't make XS frames for that model. As I said earlier, it felt like riding on high heels.
Liv Lust: I didn't care much for that bike since it pretty much felt just like my bike with bigger wheels (27.5 in instead of 26 in). Same too compact cockpit and a very twichy feel. This one felt like a pair of old sneakers that I know but do not like every time I wear them.
Scott Spark 720: As I said earlier, this bike felt like a race horse that I had a hard time taming. To continue with the shoe analogy, this felt like track cleats running shoes: very light, fast and responsive.
Ibis Mojo 3 with 27.5 plus tires: This is a funky looking bike with its big 2.8 in tires, but what a sweet ride this is! I love how the reviewer describes it on Pinkbike:
The bike's Nobby Nic tires are grabbier than a prom date when the lights dim and the slow music comes on.
The red Ibis, with its 2.8'' wide rubber, is more playful and alive than the large majority of bikes with tires that are half an inch skinnier and hundreds of grams lighter. Think Olympic gymnast who kills a large pizza every night and then scores a perfect ten despite it not looking physically possible. You know, don't judge a book by its cover and all that cliché stuff.
Note that the 2.8'' tires are an inch shorter than the 29er tires. In order to fit 29er tires, the chainstays would have to get longer. So the bottom line is that it's a better 27.5+ bike because it's not also a 29er.
The Mojo 3 handles like a regular mountain bike - there's no awkwardness or strange gyroscopic effect like you'll find on a true fat bike - and the Ibis scoots up complex and challenging climbs so well that you'll be forgiven for thinking that you're better than you actually are.
So the Mojo 3 was like a pair of Moon boots on steroids. The fun factor of this bike is through the roof and it is such a confidence builder. If only I could afford it, it would definitely be my next bike!
Niner's Jet 9 RDO and RKT 9 RDO: I wish I could have tried the Jet 9 in XS. It would probably be a very close second favorite. I LOVED the geometry of the Jet 9. These two Niner felt like beautifully built Italian hiking boots (think Scarpa) with a Vibram sole. Sturdy, reliable, comfortable and they fit like a glove.
By the way, these were all carbon bikes.
It was such an incredible opportunity to try so many high-end bikes and to see how different they all are. JF had been telling me for over a year that my bike doesn't fit me, that it's not the right bike for me and I keep saying that I am the problem (my lack of skills and experience). Now, I believe him. I just need to find a few extra thousand dollars...
That was a lot of riding! And I feel stronger than ever! All that rock climbing and biking in Tucson, and now biking almost everyday. I know it's common knowledge, but I am blown away by the fact that the more active I am, the more energy I have. My legs feel super strong (now, if only my cardio could follow!). One of the many things I love about our lifestyle is that we don't "exercise", we explore. We are active because we want to discover all these beautiful trails and places around us. It's never been easier to be in shape!
That being said, I am now pretty sore from all that riding (and from the fall... I have a handle bar shape bruise on my left thigh...) and a few more scratches, but that's it.... Whereas JF broke a finger... Poor guy... He has a tendency to break things just as we hit the most epic bike spots (last time was in Burns Lake, now here and Moab...). Oh, and his vacation starts on Thursday and we were supposed to go rock climbing in Red Rock, NV. Back to the drawing board...
The Narrows is a very popular hike in Zion, and we made sure to be there as early as possible to beat the crowd and were rewarded by having the place pretty much to ourselves.
The sun only enters this very high canyon around 1 pm, so we hiked the 5 miles upstream without seeing any sun. Since we were pretty much alone, the experience was completely awe inspiring. At one point, we came to a bend and saw one ray of light falling all the way down to the water. It felt completely magical. We hiked as high as possible up to Big Springs, where the current is too strong to keep going and chose a spot on a river bank to eat our lunch. As we started heading down, there was more and more sun entering the canyon and the experience felt completely different. It almost felt like an entirely different place. We passed a few people, but most of the hikers stayed in the first few miles (and missed Wall Street, the narrowest part of the canyon, and the most beautiful).
Since the water in the canyon is at 44 degrees F at this time of year, it is necessary to wear a drysuit and neoprene socks with special river hiking boots (available for rental in many shops in Springdale). We saw a few brave souls in wetsuits and some crazy Spring Break kids in shorts and sandals. The probing stick saved us many falls in the icy cold water.
When I came back, Mathilde told me: Woah! You walked 16 km in a canyon full of water?! Mom, I didn’t think you were *that* crazy! I looked at her perplexed and she quickly added: but crazy is good! Ahahahah! That’s my girl!
The Gooseberry Mesa trail system has a lot to offer. From the easy White Trail to the double diamond South Rim, it is a must for every mountain biker that comes to the Virgin area. We started on the practice loop and JF and I took a wrong turn and ended on Bowls and Ledges and on North Rim, some blue-black trails that were outside of my comfort zone. I hiked my bike quite a bit, but it was still pretty fun to ride on the slickrock. It takes me a bit to get used to its "stickiness" everytime (imagine riding on sand paper!), then I remember how grippy it is and what I can do on it. It's so much fun (when it's not too scary...).
Once again, we found an amazing free camping spot right by an incredible mountain bike trail network (also called the JEM trail since it is one of the main trails here). Biking from our bus is such a treat and we've been on our bikes almost everyday since!
We've been having fun trying to locate the trails that we see in the movie Where The Trail Ends (some of it has been filmed right here in Virgin!), and have seen a few crazy lines out there on the mountains.
The Fiery Furnace is a maze of canyons and slickrock where it is highly recommended to go with a guide in order not to get loss. You can however get a special permit to go in there by yourself. With JF as a guide, we felt pretty safe!
It was so special to have this whole place to ourselves, to go explore slim canyons, climb on fins, crab walk over ridges, back track and explore some more.
It was the perfect last hike with our sweet friends. We went back to camp at sunset and ate our meal together around the bonfire. We watched movies we had prepared for each other from pictures of the last 6 months and GoPro footage. All of a sudden, in the darkness of the night, fireworks exploded from the other side of the mountain and colored the sky. It felt like a perfect ending to our amazing adventure.
I recounted our funny tour with self-righteous Ranger John in the Fiery Furnace two and half years ago.
One of the many amazing things about Moab is that everything is right there: the hiking, the rock climbing and the mountain biking, which means that even if the boys finish at 2:30/3:00 pm, we still have plenty of time to go enjoy the outdoors with them. One afternoon, we stopped by the Arches National Park Visitor Center to get the kids Junior Ranger badge (and got an amazing ranger who spent more than 20 minutes answering all their questions with very interesting explanations about the rock formation in the park... Did you know that the arches were formed because the Navajo sandstone was pushed up by the salt in the soil?) and secure a permit to go explore the Fiery Furnace (an awesome maze of canyons in Arches NP that is usually only possible to visit with a guided tour) by ourselves in a few days and watched an interesting video teaching us about the biological soil crust and how to protect it by walking only on sandstone and sandy washes. We then headed to Corona Arch.
Corona Arch is one of the most impressive arch in Southern Utah and is much less crowded since it is outside Arches NP. Reaching it requires a 45-minutes fun romp, mostly on slickrock. Corona is mammoth: 140 ft high, with a span of 335 ft. Bowtie Arch is a bonus sight. It appears that a haywire missile from a passing spacecraft blasted through the back wall of its deep alcove...
You can read the crazy adventure that followed our visit to Corona Arch last time we were here...
Canyonlands NP is covered by wave after wave of deep canyons that have been formed by the currents and tributaries of Utah's Green and Colorado rivers.
We went to the Island-in-the-Sky district of the park and hiked to Mesa Arch. This area sits atop a massive 1500 foot mesa, quite literally an Island in the Sky. From the viewpoint of the arch, we can see over 100 miles, a panoramic view that encompasses thousands of square miles of canyon country.
Devil's Garden in Arches National Park leads to Landscape Arch (the longest arch in the world with a 306 feet span). After that, the path becomes a more challenging primitive trail along narrow slickrock fins, requiring some scrambling. This is where the fun begins!
When we arrived at Double-O arch (a hike I did 2 1/2 years ago alone with Aïsha), the kids started working on some bouldering problems (once you start rock climbing, you never look at a rock wall in the same way...) and Jennifer went walking on top of the arch. My legs were wobbly just looking at her. Karl and JF followed, while I happily helped the kids with their rock climbing...
But my friends know me and know I like to push my limits... but that I often need some support to do so. They helped me find my strength and confidence and JF and Karl came with me, while Jennifer snapped some pictures and cheered from down below. It was one of the most amazing view I had seen in my life... Fiery red rock fins fields all around with snow capped mountains in the background... I felt completely exhilarated. And very proud.
Then, the dads led their girls (one by one) over the arch. It was a very touching moment... Our mama's hearts were bursting with love as we looked at them conquer their fears and raise to the challenge.
Arches National Park is definitely one of my favorite National Park and Moab is just such a fun city with a cool, laid-back vibe. It reminds us of Whitehorse in a way. All those people in biking gear at the grocery store, super friendly staff that walk their talk in the outdoor stores... We could get used to such a place!
Watching the sunset at Delicate Arch in Arches National Park, Moab, is a popular attraction. We joined the crowd in that spectacular natural amphitheater for a moment of grace. Of course, many of the people wanted their photos taken under the arch, while the crowd standing on the other side was shooing them away in order not to have anybody in their pictures. There was a big round of applause when these "gooseneckers" finally got the message and moved out of everybody's sunset shot! We hiked down as night was falling and the bats were waking up. What a fantastic night!
When we left Kanab where we hiked Wire Pass and part of Buckskin Gulch, we drove through Page, AZ, and Monument Valley, up to one of our favorite spot in Utah to spend the night, called Gooseneck State Park. There are about 15 sites there (no reservation possible) along a giant cliff overlooking a U-shape canyon filled with water. We were camped right by the ridge (photos do not do justice to the immensity of that place).
We were sitting outside looking at the wonderful sunset with our friends and had started a fire to cook our sweet potatoes while the kids were painting their clay creations (from the clay they had collected at the bottom of Bucksking Gulch), as a bus full of Russian tourists arrived. All of a sudden they were walking all over our campsite (asking our friend to move because she was in the way), looking inside the bus, taking pictures of our kids (our friend had to ask them not to do that!). The kids were so intimidated, they went hiding in the bus. None of them realized they were totally in our space. They did not even really acknowledged us. We felt like real tourist attractions... It was the weirdest thing! We remained in shock for a while after they left. The kids built a rock wall all around the perimeter of our campsite. The Gooseneck Invasion, as we will now refer to it, led to the creation of a new word: goosenecker, as in: don't be such a goosenecker!
As night fell, the kids got the lambskins out and laid on them with pillows and blanket to look at the incredible sky. We could even see that someone had lit a fire down by the river in the canyon. We will remember that night for a long time.
Entering a slot canyon is a totally unique journey, a journey inward, in the womb of the earth. It’s almost a spiritual journey, completely different from the exhilarating feeling of reaching the summit of a mountain. Walking in this cool dark space, letting your hand drags on the slick walls, you feel reverence and grace. You are invariably led inside yourself.
Wire Pass is a gorge of tilted Navajo sandstone. Log jams high overhead attest of the power and volume of flash floods. From Wire Pass, we arrive at its confluence with Buckskin Gulch. On the right wall after the arch, you can see original Navajo petroglyphs.
*Buckskin Gulch is the longest continuous slot canyon in the USA. I love what this excellent guidebook says: Canyons are like people. Both are more interesting when scoured to their essence. And the most thoroughly scoured canyon on our planet is Buckskin Gulch.
Rippling arcs of rust-colored sand welcome you as you enter Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park. Contrasted by blue skies, juniper and pinion pines, and steep red cliffs, the sand from the dunes is really grains of quartz with a hematite coating providing the orange color. The dunes are estimated to be between 10,000 and 15,000 years old.
We boogie boarded down this shifting sea of orange sand and felt like a younger version of ourselves as we walked barefoot in that giant sand box.
We chose Sand Hollow State Park because it was close to everything: the amazing network of mountain bike trails in Hurricane, the many rock climbling routes in St. George, Snow Canyon State Park and Zion National Park. Little did we know how beautiful this place was with it's turquoise reservoir water and orange cliffs located a mere 5 minute walk from our campsite.
Little did we know too that the "jumping rock" was a favorite spot of the college kids on Spring Break. As we were quietly exploring the cliffs one morning, they arrived en masse, with cheap beer, tiny bikinis and selfie sticks. They were loud as only self-rightous college kids can be and left piles of trash in their wake... We came back a few days later and filled 3 big black bags of water bottles, broken beer bottles, candy wrappers, sunblock bottles and fast food containers... I can only hope my girls feel a greater connexion to the land when they grow up and treat it with respect.
The wind was howling when the alarm rang at 6:30 on Saturday morning. We had decided to get an early start and beat the crowd on the hike to Observation Point, one of the most scenic hike in Zion National Park. It was an 8 mile hike with a 2100 feet elevation. We had packed lots of food, water and warm clothes the night before and were ready for another exciting adventure. When we got off the shuttle bus, we looked up at the many switchbacks that were cut in the very steep rock wall ahead of us and smiled! We love a challenge!
We were pretty much alone on the trail as the sun rose in the canyon, illuminating the top of Angels Landing, a hike we had done a few days earlier and that some of us had done again the night before at sunset. We walked into a beautiful canyon and were greeted by the warm morning sun on the other side. We kept on pushing up, switchbacks after switchbacks, mesmerized by the ever changing colors of the rocks. At the top, the view was simply incredible.
As we started going down, we met more and more people. Huffing and puffing, some of them congratulated the kids for their accomplishment. The children kept on skipping to the bottom of the trail, smiling, proud and happy.
During the 5 days we stayed in the park, we hiked many other shorter trails: the River walk that leads to the entrance of the Narrows, a very popular hike in a canyon that require wearing waterproof pants/bibs, socks and shoes, and carrying a big stick to keep your balance in the areas of the canyon where there is more current. The water was at 45 degrees, so going without this equipment was not an option. In the summer, it is possible to do it in sandals and shorts (something we plan to do at some point). We also hiked up to Upper Emerald Pool and down to Lower Emerald Pool (the photo of the little waterfall and chain along the wall is from that hike), as well as to Weeping Rock. It is a fascinating phenomenon that in the limestone rock layer called travertine, a more porous formation, plants grow and water seep through.
Zion is simply a majestic place that one must see (and hike!) in its life to really appreciate it. If you plan to visit and are in shape enough for a moderate to challenging hike, I highly recommend you do Angels Landing and Observation Point for a total Zion experience.
What we are learning is that the best way by far to find out where to go climbing is to visit the local rock climbing/outdoor store. We knew that St. George is the place in the United States where there is the biggest concentration of sport climbing routes, but even after hours of online research and looking through many physical guidebooks at the library, we could not find clear information on what we were looking for. A 30 minute visit at the Desert Rat store and we had found the perfect spot to set two ropes side by side, with a beautiful approach walk, and in a less crowded spot (it is Spring Break here...). While we were there, Mara decided to use her money to buy herself some (pink!) rock climbing shoes (we were all sharing mine)! She was flying up the wall!
We are already reaching the point where my girls are starting to be stronger (and more confident!) than I am in rock climbing and mountain biking... A great lesson in humility. Needless to say, I am very proud of them and amazed at what they can do!