First, please know that this is ideally not a first time backpacking trip. The trail is rugged and unforgiving, especially when wet. It is very challenging in certain parts and the 46 km definitely takes longer than the distance suggests (not many of those are easy miles - or km!). The trail requires full attention from km 2 all the way to Divide Lake. The 6 km section between Divide Lake and Talus Lake is the easiest.

The first day from the trailhead to Grizzly Lake is 11 km, but with 878 m of positive elevation and 444 m of negative one, and most of it on rocks from km 2 onward, it makes for a challenging day, especially when wet.

It was raining for most of the day and with a 30 minutes lunch break, it took us 7 hours.

John filtering water from Grizzly Lake in the morning sun on Day 2.

JF going up Glissade Pass. You can see Grizzly Lake and the white cooking tents on the shore.

When leaving Grizzly Lake you have to get up and over the infamous Glissade Pass. The ranger told us that many people turned around at the top in the last few weeks, too scared to go down. Usually, the snow had melted by now. The sleep incline and the exposure made for a very impressive sight. If it hadn’t been for JF’s confidence, Aïsha’s enthusiasm and John’s support, I very much doubt I would have attempted it.

Be warned that these are no NPS American Rangers. “There’s a little river crossing before Grizzly” means “You could easily fall in without experience or proper river crossing shoes and it’s quite slippery and ice cold.” And “There is still snow on Glissade Pass, just dig your heels” means “You will likely feel like you might slip to your death, crampons are a good idea”.

JF going down Glissade Pass. It was steeper than it looks. It was indeed so steep that people who turned around asked us if we went down facing the mountain, like on a ladder.

Hiking past Divide Lake on our way to Talus.

Our second day of hiking from Grizzly Lake to Talus Lake will likely remain one of the most memorable hiking days of my life.

Our campspot at Talus Lake, overlooking Tombstone Mountain hidden on the far right.

The most popular time to visit is the end of August because of the fall colors, but unfortunately, since there are only 4 tent pads at Talus (the most spectacular spot), they are all booked very quickly by tour companies flying photographers over (and back) by helicopter for 10,000$/person. The ranger we met said it was quite a sight to see. Women in high heels and rolling suitcases, rangers being treated like bell boys… so yeah, unless you want to people watch, I’d book at a different time!

We had the place to ourselves and it was pure bliss.

John went into each of the 3 lakes. It was cramping cold.

Here are some stats for people who are interested:

Trailhead to Grizzly Lake: 11 km 878 m + et 444 m -

Grizzly Lake to Divide Lake: 6 km with Glissade Pass being 1,8 km with 400 m+ et 400 m- (crazy steep!)

Divide to Talus: 6 km 200 m+ 190 m- (the easy part!)

We strongly suggest the following itinerary: 1st night -Grizzly, 2nd night - Talus, 3rd night-Divide, 4th night - Grizzly.

Reserve one night before your trip at the territorial campground 15 km from the trailhead and the last night as well. You do not want to have to drive back 6-7 hours to Whitehorse on that same day.

2 am on July 10th at Grizzly Lake. No need to pack a headlamp!

Also, our packs were very light for 5 days and it made the technical sections more manageable and the rest of the hike more pleasant (without water):

John: 35 lbs (which is great given that the bag itself weighs 7 1/2 lbs!)

JF: 33 lbs

Aïsha: 25 lbs

Cat: 23 lbs