Cabrillo National Monument, San Diego

Cabrillo National Monument, established in 1913, commemorates Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo's voyage of discovery who led the first European expedition to explore what is now the west coast of the United States.

At the time Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo sailed into San Diego Bay in 1542, a rich diversity of life was present, ranging from desert cactus to moisture-loving algae, tarantulas to sea slugs, and gray foxes to sea lions. Approximately 3,000 Native Americans lived in the San Diego area at that time. The Kumeyaay, or Diegueños according to the Spanish accounts, lived simply in the environment but likely impacted the landscape through the use of fire. Today, largely due to the impacts of European colonization and centuries of growth and development, the habitat Cabrillo saw is now among the rarest in the world. 

During periods of low tide, pools form along this rocky intertidal area in which you may see flowery anemones, elusive octopi, spongy deadman's fingers, darting fishes and the always entertaining hermit crabs.

Climbing in Temecula

JF found a great bouldering gym 15 minutes from our campsite. Bouldering is rock climbing without a rope on shorter walls. It was great because the kids could climb without needing us to belay them and could try any route they wanted. We climbed until we dropped. 

I love the climbing gyms' energy. Everybody helps each other, and the vibe is really fun and relax. It reminded me of our climbing gym years in Montreal when we both still were at University... and our forearms and hands could tolerate much more climbing before being fried! 

Quartzite: Bluebird Wanderlodge meet or Burning old man

People get old couches at the Salvation Army at the beginning of the season and make pretty cozy set-up outsides. There is even a hot tub under that screen tent!

Quartzsite is one of the largest boondocking site in America. Boondocking, in nomad lingo, means a place where you can camp for free (usually without services). This place is huge and people can camp there from December to May in the BLM longer stay areas with dump station and water for $170 for the season (or for free without access). Needless to say, the place has a pretty interesting vibe! It kinds of feel like a huge Burning Man Festival.. but given the average age of the campers, it's more like Burning old man...

Many owners of Bluebird Wanderlodge motorhomes (like our bus) were gathering this week in the Nest, so we joined the crowd. It reminded me of our old VW bus meets pre-kids. People setting up in circles with bonfires in the middle, potlucks outside, incredibly dark starry skies... and the gentle hum of generators in the background. 

On Saturday, we decided to go to the Big Tent to explore the Gem Show, which turned out to be part flea market and part RV show too. The place was packed and dusty. We made our way between ethnic statuary and knick-knacks, fake fossils, Tigger shirts embedded with fake diamonds, RV brushes made from recycled tires, foot long hot dogs, teeth whitening and pain relief mud foot bath (I'm not making that up), pet rats and a bunch of other things that were just plain weird before finding the well hidden gem show. As the locals say, If you can't find it in Quartzite, it hasn't been thought of yet.

A week inside

Those who have followed us for a while might remember how we spent a Portuguese Christmas here in Tucson two years ago with our friends. Since they were going back to their families this year, we spent a week with them when they came back. It was a week of baking (Mathilde and I really miss having an oven!) and playing inside. Our friend wondered why our girls didn't want to be outside, especially since the weather was perfect (Tucson summers are awefully hot), but I reminded him that our girls are ALWAYS outside, so getting to spend time inside, in a house, with new toys, was just what they wanted.

We juiced, ate and celebrated with them. It was a simple week, filled with good moments and interesting conversations. And two adorable little boys.

Hiking (and geocaching) up Brown Mountain, Tucson Mountain Park, AZ

Scrouching to take a picture in the desert can be quite dangerous as I quickly found out... A friend had to remove the many needles poked in my butt (which took our friendship to a whole new level!). But I kept at it, pulling balls of jumping cacti from around my ankles, wincing... The light was so beautiful, it made the whole thing worth it... On the way back, I heard some coyote sing ... And then, there was the full moon...

A snowstorm in the desert

On the 1st day of the year, we woke up to snow on the ground. In the desert! A mere hour from the Mexican border!! It is quite unusual and according to the locals, it only happens every 3-4 years. Still half-asleep, I heard the bus door open at 7:30 and rolled around in bed... I found out later that Aïsha decided to go play in the snow by herself! JF followed soon after and took most of the pictures in this post (except the last 3). I finally joined them later and a snowball fight ensued (snowballs with desert prickles are nasty weapons!).

Hiking to the Romero Pools

I don’t travel because it’s easy, I travel because it’s challenging and humbling. I travel because it allows me to connect more deeply with myself and the world, because it brings me outside of my comfort zone, and everytime it does, I am reminded I am capable of more.

Christmas in the desert

Our friend made a Christmas ornament for each of us that she filled with rocks, sand and dried plants that she picked on a hike so that we would remember this Christmas forever. It was the sweetest gift.

He decorated the bus while they slept. There were Legos, crepes, homemade quiches and cinnamon buns eaten outside with friends. There were shared traditions and shared stories. A hike, some rain and an owl that answered back. 

Catalina State Park, Tucson, AZ

On Christmas Eve, we watched the sun rise over Mt Lemmon from our bedroom window, went for a hike among huge saguaro cacti with friends and ate popsicles in the sun. It amazes me how the shifting of our traditions comes as a relief. Like one less thing to carry with us. 

Under the palm trees...

We were delighted to find out that the campground where we decided to stay for two weeks was also a working farm. We slept under date palms (that had been harvested in September; we bought a pound of those delicious organic dates on location for $5!) and picked our own citrus (oranges, grapefruits and tangerines) in the trees near our bus for free!!

We swam in the pool, played pickleball (mini-tennis), shared meals outside at night, made some new friends from Quebec. There were roadrunners zooming through our campsites, a magic show by a fellow traveler that inspired our girls to create their own show, singing Christmas songs in bathing suits, sewing Christmas stocking outside and rollerblading hand in hand.

You can read an article I wrote on our unconventional life choices that was featured on the Rawfood Family blog.

Hiking in Joshua Tree

On our third day at Joshua Tree, we decided to go explore some of the hiking trails. We really enjoyed Barker Dam trail, drove around Ryan's campground and saw rock climbers on top of Headstone rock (one day, I'll climb this route!) and went to see the sunset at Keys View, at 5000 feet of altitude. It was cold!! Hat and gloves and winter coat cold! We warmed up eating some chili in the Westy while the sky turned bright orange and ended the evening in a hot spring where there were 7 pools at different temperatures. Just another day in paradise.

Rock climbing in Joshua Tree National Park

Can you see JF up there on the rock? This was our climbing spot on day 1 at Indian Cove. Just awesome!

Rock climbing crash course for our friends!

Teddy Bear Cholla Cacti (that's their real name!): Don't try to cuddle with them!

Oasis of Mara: The Serrano, the first recorded tribe living here, called this place Mar-rah, meaning "little springs and much grass"

The Oasis of Mara is the green space where you can see fan palms.

Chuparosa

Joshua Tree National Park had been on our bucket list for years and we were so excited to be there and finally see the unique Joshua trees (that pretty much grow only in this area) and rock climb at this famous spot. The first day we headed to Indian Cove campground where you can rock climb from your campsite! We brought our friends rock climbing for their first time and they are hooked!

We saw creosote trees, yucca, ocotillo, green-barked palo verde, jumping (or teddy bear) cholla cacti, hedgehog cactus, chuparosa: I love the desert and the name of its plants!

Salton Sea, CA

The Salton Sea, California's largest lake by volume, exists entirely by accident. 

It was created in the early 1900s after a heavy rain caused the Colorado River to burst through the banks of an irrigation canal, sending millions of gallons of water into a previously dried out lake bed in the California desert. 

In the 50s and 60s, it was a booming tourist attraction. Marketed as a "miracle in the desert," it became Palm Springs but with beaches. It would regularly attract over half a million visitors annually. Stars like the Beach Boys and Sonny Bono would visit to drive speedboats and swim.

But it wouldn't last. 

The sea quickly became something of an ecological nightmare soup. The Salton Sea is surrounded by nearly half a million acres of agricultural land, and water from this land runs off into the sea, taking with it salt and fertilizers and pesticides. By the 70s, the water was becoming too hostile to sustain much of any kind of life, and the shoreline became littered with thousands and thousands of dead fish. 

The dead fish, combined with rotting algal blooms, made the water smell so bad that nobody wanted to go anywhere near it.

The Beach Boys left. Sonny Bono left. Everyone else left, and the Salton Sea fell into misery. 

If you were just driving past on Highway 111, you could be forgiven for thinking it's still a nice place. The weather is pleasant, the beaches are white, and flocks of birds glide along the blue surface of the water. 

But, as you climb out of your car and get close, it becomes a big old mess. The white beaches, it turns out, are white because they're made up of the pulverized bones of millions of dead fish.

And then the smell hits you. It's like a fish market at the end of a long summer day. Only instead of keeping the fish on ice, this fish market keeps them on piles of diarrhea.

Bombay Beach is the most developed place on the shores of the Salton Sea and it was once a pretty nice place. 
But then the sea started to burst its banks, regularly flooding large parts of the town. In the 80s, it became apparent that nothing could be done about it, so officials built a dike around half of the town and just let the sea take what it wanted.

Because of this, the shore is littered with dilapidated structures, falling apart as they sink into the ground. Of the town that hasn't sunk into the ground, about a third of it is abandoned (text copied from this site). 

It definitely has a very apocalypse-y feel.

Home sweet hell.

Hiking in Painted Canyon, Mecca, CA

Canyons are one of our favorite places to hike (especially slot canyons) and we were thrilled when JF found out about this place, an hour from our campground. There is something exhilarating about scrambling over rocks, squeezing between rocks and even climbing up and down precarious ladders. The last time we were in a canyon was two  years ago, in Utah. Our friends had never experienced a hike in a slot canyon before and it was so fun to share that wonderful moment with them. Children and adults alike exclaimed at each turn. Some parts required quite a bit of teamwork to get through! 

Kayaking in the waves

We sure made the best of that last day at the beach with our friends!

There were pelicans skimming over the water, a big puddle that became a lake for the little ones, hand-clapping games, Christmas songs thaught in French and English and a bonfire under the full moon by the ocean.

It was hard to leave this wonderful camping spot (Faria County Park, near Ventura, CA) and say goodbye to some of our friends who were continuing their adventures on different routes. 

By the ocean

I was woken up by the waves breaking on the rocks and splashing the bus’ bedroom window. I pulled the curtains open and watched with amusement, feeling like I was sleeping in a car wash.

All of a sudden, I see dolphins playing in the surf and we all get up and dress quickly and go outside. Our friends join us, there is laughter and soaking wet kids (and adults!) and salt-water coffee.

Later in the day, as the tide rolls out again, I sit on the rocks and listen to a friend’s wise words. There is a Skype music lesson with a view of the ocean. And kids swimming together at sunset and almost washed away sandals. Oh this is life!

Breaking down between Carmel-by-the-Sea and Big Sur

The intended plan was to drive on the coast from Monterey through Carmel-by-the-Sea to Big Sur and back before it got dark. The curvy road was busy on that Thanksgiving weekend and when the Westy went dead just as we were starting to cross a narrow bridge, we knew we could not have picked a better spot to break down... Our friends were right behind and started to direct traffic while our friend Mat pulled us to a flat spot on the side of the road. There was no cell signal and after finding a roadside call box, JF spent over an hour on the phone to get a towing. Our friends stayed with us the whole time (they were such troopers!), the kids played and explored the area. We watched dolphins and seals play in the turquoise water and even spotted a whale! There are definitely worst places to break down!

The kids tried to start a fire without matches and came up with tons of games to keep themselves busy and happy, we warmed up some soup in the Westy to feed the troops, watched a beautiful sunset, and when the stars started showing up in the sky and the towing was still nowhere in sight, we brought the lambskin, blanket and sleeping bags out and looked at the sky. We spotted three shooting stars and made wishes. It smelled of wild sage and sea mist. This is what memories are made of.